Copalita

Post fromProfessor Andrews:

Blasting out of Cuernavaca on Wednesday, January 18th, we made our way

to the town of Tlaxiaco in the state of Oaxaca in a huge chartered bus that made us all

feel like rock stars. That was an all-day bus ride affair. The next morning we jumped on the bus again for another all-day bus ride to Huatulco on the coast – rather stomach twisting from time-to-time. Just ask a few of us about that one if you dare.

Once in Huatulco, the first wonderful visit on Friday, January 20th was the Parque

Eco-Arqueológico de Copalita located near the town of La Crucesita, which is part of

Huatulco, Oaxaca .

Copalita is a prehispanic archaeological site that was recently excavated and developed into an eco-park, a truly remarkable setting adjacent to the mouth of the Copalita river. Copalita received it name, Copalitlan, a Mexica (Aztec) name in their language of Nahua, meaning Place of the Copal. Sap from the Copal tree was used as incense in Prehispanic rituals and is still burned today on various ceremonial occasions.

Mexico’s Instituto de Antropolgia e Historia (INAH) has been shifting its focus in

regards to how it develops archaeological sites for tourism. Emphasis is now increasingly

placed on preserving archaeological sites as they were uncovered by the archaeologist’s

trowel, rather than reconstructing walls and features, which is problematic because no

one knows what these sites really looked like beyond wh

at has survived the centuries since they were abandoned. As such, visitors get to see the remains of the “real” site. Moreover, the impact of tourism is minimized by insuring that visitors do not walk over the ruins. The Copalita Park, covering 81 hectares (about 200 acres), is designed

with a masonry pathway that leads through the

site and the surrounding tropical forest.

Therefore, visitors get an incredible micro-diversity of eco-systems. Our class had the immense good fortune to see the beautiful ruins while passing through to get a tour of the park from the famous Mesoamerican archaeologist Raúl Matadamas Diaz, who directed the El Proyecto Arqueológico Bocana del Río Copalita, Huatulco, Oaxaca (The Copalita Archaeological Project at Mouth of the Copalita River).

The archaeological remains represent a range of prehispanic occupation covering a little

over 2300 years. The earliest evidence dates to the Preclassic period (500-150 B.C.),

making its earliest occupation contemporaneous with the well-known site of Monte

Alban in the Valley of Oaxaca. Most of the architecture, however, dates to the Classic

and Post-Classic periods, roughly A.D. 200-to 1520 or so). As you wind your way

through the park you can see the imposing basal remains of several pyramids (some

more than 10 ft in height!), four platforms integrated around the site’s ballcourt, and

two impressive carved stone monuments. This architectural complex comprises the civic-ceremonial center of the site of Copalita.

Comparatively speaking, site has few carved stone monuments,

but the numerous polished stone faces throughout the site suggest that much of the architecture had a stucco finish that was probably painted with beautiful frescos using locally available natural and mineral based pigments. One notable source of brilliant red color was the cochineal worm, a small insect that makes its home on the pads of the nopal cactus.

The ballcourt at the site attests to the importance of Copalita site during the Classic period. Ballcourts were “I”-shaped venues where the ancient Mesoamerican elites played a game using a bouncy ball made of rubber from rubber trees that grow in the area. Although we do not know the exact rules of the game, it appears to have consisted of a match between two teams that vied to knock the ball through two rings set

on either side the court using their forearms, hips, and perhaps feet. These competitions were probably an important means of elite interaction and a source of community solidarity for the ancient Mesoamerican people. Although some people suggest that the winners were sacrificed, no one really knows for sure. It might have indeed been the case because it was considered an honor to be sacrificed to the gods. We know from Aztec and Maya ethnohistoric information that the gods required the nourishment of human blood to maintain the stability of the

universe!

In and around the park is a beautiful coastal environment with a spectacular elevated

view of the Pacific Ocean to the south. The region boasts an incredible variety of plant and animal life plant and animal life. In keeping with

the “eco” focus of the site, the trees that were growing on the site when excavations have

begun have been “pedestalled,” leaving the earth they were growing on intact so that they remain alive.

Estimates indicate a local faunal diversity

that includes 133 species of amphibians, 245 species

of reptiles (including iguanas and snakes!), 190 species of mammals, not to mention a vast variety birds (indeed the state of Oaxaca has more than half of the known bird species found throughout Mexico) and innumerable insects.

As one walks through the park numerous placards contain information about local plant species used for food, medicinal, and utilitarian purposes.

The bark of one local tree is still used by the people today as soap. An ongoing inventory

of the many useful plants in the area is being compiled with an eye towards keeping the

control of these products in the hands of the local people – resistance to corporate “bio-

piracy.”As is the case for many developing nations in the world today, there is an

increasing interest in protecting such resources from aggressive global corporations so

that the people of Mexico can manage and benefit from the resources that they have used

for untold generations.

Copalita was definitely worth the visit! Any of you planning trips to the west coast of

Mexico should give serious consideration to Huatulco as a vacation destination. As a

coastal paradise, at present it still has a local feel to it, not nearly as developed as many of

its counterparts like Acapulco and Puerto Escondido.

Loved the view from Copalita.

Xochicalco

 The site of Xochicalco was built defensively on the top of a hill overlooking the valley of Morelos, which meant a short hike for our class. The site of Xochi was beautiful, but it was the views that really took everyone by surprise. It is believed that some people from Teotihuacan actually relocated to Xochicalco. The site was impressive and it included a ball court, residential areas, as well as ritualistic pyramids.

Our class on top of the Pyramid of the Feather Serpent   ----------------------------------------------->>
   








The Pyramid of the Feather Serpent was by far the favorite of the class. Not only was the stone work extremely intricate, we as a class were able to decipher and figure out what the toponyms meant. The museum was also extremely fascinating. It displayed artifacts uncovered including jewelry, obsidian weaponry, and other stone carvings that needed to be preserved. Overall, the trip to Xochicalco was a complete success!

Reflections on Cuernavaca

The sun, filtering through winding passageways and flickering as the wings of invisible families glide over blistering roofs. The maze, circling and undulating over cobbles, magically guiding battered buses to their destinations while pastel hues of yellow and orange crack to show the generations of life this city has seen. The rush, a whirlpool of desires colliding, intertwining, combining again and again as the sickly sweet aroma of the butcher’s knife and the florists sheers dampens the skin like sweat. The citadel, stones upon stones, the pauper’s castle crowns the glory of old for musicians who never play polish their buttons and shine their shoes.

While the ravaged lover smolders, he watches this city. Wings mix with arms and legs, small feathers sticking to melting lime and mango ice cream. Where writer once composed, we slept and found refuge from the ravages of Montezuma. A flashing cacophony of life, mixing crumbling stone with dancing feet and olives reclining in empty glasses. This city is both alive and dead, its past gliding on the wind with the ash from the mountain that guards it, sticking to the endless miles of leafy green, red and orange. Each day is a rebirth, awaiting the opening of the Bird of Paradise while the night’s sneakers stub on cobble stones for sleep before starting again, returning to the city as it always does.

Cuernavaca Market

Our hide and seek market friends.

The market in Cuernavaca was spectacular! The sights, sounds, and smells were overwhelming. The market venders consisted of clothing, flowers, meats, and produce. I would write more about the market, but the photos speak for themselves.

Beautiful at any age.

Spices in abundance.

Florists waving to us       

From Teotihuacan to Cuernavaca! *Day 7*

Today was a big travel day. We caught a bus from Teotihuacan back to Mexico City, took a taxi to a different bus station, then boarded our final bus to Cuernavaca. After a long day of traveling, we finally  made it to our new hotel. It was only about two blocks from the centro (city center of Cuernavaca) so our class had easy access to main restaurants, vendors, and markets. Our first dinner in Cuernavaca was delicious, although many of us were questioning our dining decisions after the first few stomach grumbles began! The first evening in Cuernavaca was spent journaling for the majority of us, and scouting out our new location.

Looking out onto the the Cuernavaca Center.

Looking back at Mexico City

The hustle of cars battling buses for space, careening around corners to the beat of strained motors. Wafting odors, floating on unfelt breezes intertwine to create a roadmap that calls and forbids the weary traveler from finding their sources. As the sun sets, shining orange and red through layers of stagnant pollution, venders make their distinctive calls; the shrill whistle of the tamale vendor, the wail of the propane dealer, the repetitive chant of the knife sharpener. In the square, beneath the protective shadow of the conqueror’s cathedral, dancers whirl and twirl, erect feathers swirling sickly sweet tendrils of copal smoke from healers, peddling their remedies. Lovers embrace in silence, while the roar of their history spins before them, sitting upon the stones of destroyed temples and the bones of their rulers. When night comes, the strum of guitars combined with the voices of lonesome musicians hail passersby. In modern subway tunnels, ancient temples protrude from the ground, along with tablets adorning the walls as the queuing masses murmur by like countless stings threading an equal number of needles. This is the city of monuments, vibrant heroes and elaborate lineages. To say the past is alive here is a fallacy, because all points in time are constant here, never dying or slipping into the cupboards that usually hold forgotten memories.